It is difficult to fully communicate the assault on the senses that Asia often is. No amount of words or photos can substitute for the experience here. Thus it is with the overnight train to Lao Cai. Hot, stuffy, noisy, cigarette smoke wafting through the hallway; all of it makes sleeping difficult. Four of us are stuffed in the berth. As is my experience and good fortune to have traveled with some great friends, I’ve discovered that a sense of civilization can be restored anywhere with a bit of gin, tonic, and fresh limes! This luxury I have adopted and maintain in honor of my Nashville, New Zealand, and Australian friends. But on this section of the Orient Express, I try to recall the words of the classic Gladys Night and the Pips song “Leaving On The Midnight Train”, somehow Lao Cai doesn’t quite fit in the lyrics in place of “Georgia…”

Trapped in the berth!!! The cabin door handle turned out to be tricky. For about 10 minutes around 3am, Paul tries to get out to the toilet at the other end of the rail car. The cabin door will not budge! Next Phong tries…nobody could open it and we all felt trapped and two of us had to pee bad! Finally, someone outside walked by and we yelled to open the door!! We figured out how to work the latch after that. Hilarious!

This train line was built by the French in the early 1900’s. It feels like it hasn’t changed much. Four of us are stuffed into this cabin!! Now at dawn, everyone stirs. Not a good sleep, for sure.

Early morning riding the rails along the Red River…

Very poor sleep, and not good for the huge hilly day cycling looming just hours ahead…

Happy to be off the damn train finally…