What a difference a day makes… Five of the gang rode in the van for all or part of today, another clue that the previous day was overly extreme. For me, I found my legs and had a solidly strong day, thankfully. We climbed 3000′ then dropped through mountains mostly filled with rice terraces built into the contours as far as the eye could see. It was spectacularly scenic, cycling on narrow winding roads with little traffic. Reminded me of the incredible Long Gi Terraces in SE China near Guilin. After a couple hours climbing, we were rewarded with 18k downhill, often steep enough to make my arms sore from constant braking. After lunch, we continued on nearly flat road for 44k into Ha Giang completing the longest day of the trip at 104k. Of the last 44k, Dermot and I kicked the first 24k together with nobody in sight behind us. The final 20k into town was relaxed. Nicer hotel here, a larger town.

Earlier at our lunch stop in a small village, I met Benito, a Spaniard traveling through Moscow, Mongolia, China, Vietnam, Cambodia, eventually to New Zealand where he has a job waiting. So interesting to hear about Mongolia especially. In VN, he rented a motorbike so was traveling around here. We exchanged emails since I hope to get to Spain and New Zealand both someday. It’s fascinating to meet folks who don’t seem to be living a conventional life, though truth is he’s a younger guy, traveling before his job limits mobility. He said I reminded him of his dad who also bikes…

Well you know it was my birthday, so during din I bought a bottle of rice wine (100 proof) for the table. Here, the hooch is very local, and is steeped in large glass jars with different items that instill flavor or special powers. The options here were snake, flies, hornets, or apples. I picked the hooch in apples. After toasting the crew first of course, I announced only at my table it was my birthday. Big mistake… Many shots followed, from the crew, from Dermot; then some of the group left for the hotel. The remaining eight of us moved to another place next to the hotel and more shots ensued. I am so thankful it is a rest day! Actually, this was the only possible night to do shots with a rest day; all the other days are so brutal and long, every ounce of strength is needed and alcohol isn’t compatible. Anyway, I had a nice evening with my traveling temporary family.

This morning, had a fantastic bowl of spicy pho ba with lots of chili sauce and fresh limes!!! That took the edge off my pounding head… Today will be to wander around on our own…