First about last night… after the group dinner was completed which was very good, Ox invited me out for the crew dinner and drinks. I’m always very honored and appreciative when that happens, and I like to think it’s a reflection of the fact that I try to be a good client and good foreigner on these trips; and bring a positive affect to the other clients as well. In fact, Fox said that Red Spokes should offer me half-price on any trip that I want to go to since I’m such an all-around good guy!

The additional meal that Ox was so excited about was pork. There were two kinds, one was a fried pork; other one was the same chunks of pork but in a curry tomato spicy green chile pepper sauce that was really fantastic! But when the Nepalese say pork, it’s prepared similar to nothing in the western world I’ve seen, but I have had many times in the Asia. Imagine you take a slab of unsliced bacon, instead of the usual thin slices lengthwise like we’re accustomed to, you cut it the other direction so that you have a small chunk of meat attached to a large chunk of fat. It actually tastes better than it sounds, but you can’t eat very much of it because it’s just so fatty and rich. Ox also brought out the bottle of signature whiskey, so we had a couple sips of that as well, the hotel manager and the kitchen manager also joined us, so I felt honored to be in that group.

Earlier at dinner with the group, we got the lowdown on marriage tradition in Nepal. The culture is certainly one that still practices arranged marriages involving the parents. Ox estimated
99% of the marriages are still arranged that way; as he explains it seems completely and absolutely normal in their culture. It was interesting because the Brits were asking questions like “what if you meet somebody else and you fall in love?” and the concept almost seemed completely alien to Ox in when they asked that question; it just doesn’t happen very often apparently in Nepal. You have your arranged marriage, that’s what you get. End of story. However, apparently it is not completely uncommon though for Nepali men to have a second wife if they are wealthy…

Now to today’s spectacular cycling! What Ox calls a magical day; started with 29k downhill! After that undulating through brilliant terraces, river, mountains, and much clearer air than we’ve ever had here. Saw two more monkeys crossing the road today of a different type from two days ago…

We ended early and landed at the one star Jomsom Hotel! Electricity, cold water only, harder than the usual Nepali hard beds. In other words, fantastic!

Waling is a pretty small town; quiet by Nepal standards. A swim in the river was promised; the Brits walked down there straight away. I got the first of the single stall shower that we all shared (not at the same time) and did laundry in there too. A very one star basic Nepali hotel, but the view of the river valley is really amazing!

After, Flavia and I walked down to the river; about 1k from the hotel, with every intention of taking a swim; but on arrival a bit too much trash and such floating around to think that was a good idea.

At the river, a gang of elementary age hoodlums appeared; they were actually friendly but filthy ragamuffins. We left the river in search of a cold beer in the blistering heat, since we’re lower elevation now; probably near 100′ today in this town.

We found a little shop after the hoodlum gang departed our trail; got two large cold beers for 330 Nepalese rupees; or $1.90 each for the big ones. Sitting there, another gang of 11th graders appeared and hung out for a while; common language limited but fun nonetheless.

After that, back to the hotel for another beer for me; Flavia away for a nap. (I had three today; that’s two too many of the Nepalese lagers…

Just now, I’m sitting on the front steps of this little Nepali style hotel, drinking my beer (which I’ve had very few of this trip do far) listening to three Nepali men chat in the shade while their furry white dog naps at my feet. Actually a pretty good moment!

Went up to the rooftop; what did I see? The rooftop chicken coop across the road. The evening delivery of propane canisters for cooking. The buses with people on top and hanging off the sides going by. The street vendor on a bike selling ice cream cones. The cart going by with a cage of quail selling eggs. More motorbikes than cars. More people walking than vehicles. A woman sitting in the breezy stairwell reading a newspaper. Kids on New Years holiday until next week running around happily screaming at eachother. A guy cleaning out the street gutter by hand; no shovel or tool. Roof laundry being collected by women. Babies crying. Birds chirping. Houses, very basic brick with concrete troweled over, in tve hills above with amazing views. Farm tractors driving by. Women with young children sitting on benches watching the kids play. Men in small groups sitting on stools beside the road talking. A woman using a large flat tray to toss rice up in the air to separate the husks. The thousands of terraced fields behind the hotel waiting for wetter weather and planting the rice. A different place, but very alive and vibrant place full of chores and everyday life. I wonder if these people ever take the time to think obsessively about whether they’re “happy enough?”

A 180′ topic from there; the Brits have repeatedly revealed a bit of Asian cycling travel ignorance. Tonight at dinner (which was a moderately difficult to stomach combination of pickled veg, rice, chips, and watery dal) they started lobbying for later starting times with the logic that they want to sleep later and arrive later. I of course jumped right in on that; and the illogic of starting later, taking more breaks as they suggested; and spending therefore more than half the day in the hottest sun! After that discussion ran its course, I apologized if I was my conversation was excessively aggressive (as I thought their argument was inherently faulty) and they assured me no problem. They went on to say SERIOUSLY that they expected to be cycling through green meadows at the base of the snow-capped Himalayas! Really???? Realistic expectations are the foundation of a balanced and healthy life perspective, doncha think?

Okay, unfortunately I just had to kill a spider after being called into the Brits room by fearful Mariola. It was unfortunate that I had to catch it under a mop after it climbed up on their bed (they freaked) after I couldn’t catch it under a mug; it moved too fast! It was probably three inches across leg tip to tip. Beautiful tan colored spider! Really wish they hadn’t called me in there in the first place…

Overall a fantastic day of cycling with some complex interactions and events in the evening. This is a bit of a filthy and sketchy hotel really; but there is no extra charge for the Nepalese ambiance!!

No 3G or wifi here, so will post pix tomorrow…