The official summary: After breakfast a short transfer takes us to the highest pass in the Balkan Mountains; the Beklemeto Pass at 1500 m. This was the ancient Roman Via Trayana (Trajan road), and some of the Roman remains can still be seen. We make a short ascent to see the Arc of Liberty, symbolizing the liberation of Bulgaria in 1878 from the Ottomans during the Russian-Turkish War then it’s time to freewheel down into South Bulgaria and the Valley of Roses. In May the fields are blooming and the petals are picked early in the morning and distilled into rose-oil. We take a short off road section along a stream for some variety. After a picnic lunch next to a river it’s on to Koprivshtitsa, the best preserved 19th century Bulgarian town studded with characteristic architecture and a vivid revolutionary past. Gozbarov’s House. Ride 63 km.

Today started with the transfer to the top of the pass, when we got up there it was completely fogged in, you couldn’t see more than 100 feet ahead, so we drove down about 2 km to where the fog broke and then hopped on the bikes. I think we had 16 km down to go riding, pretty steep and high speed and was very nice, though cold. Today was the day it was most likely to rain and very pleased that it did not!

One of the interesting things we saw today was a rose field, this area is known for its rose oil production. The roses are a particular variety from Syria I think, very pungent and almost citronella to my nose. We will see more tomorrow I’m sure, plus a Rose oil production facility is on our list tomorrow. Looking forward to seeing that! (Also saw a beautiful field of red poppies near the roses.)

Today was a great mix of off-road and paved, the off-road sections reminded me of how cool the great divide ride would be! It’s so quiet out there, you see butterflies and hear the birds, and no cars whizzing by…

63 km total, definitely plenty of climbing but it was all reasonably gradual. And it up in the town, in a house built in the 1800s that is converted to a hotel. Very peaceful place overlooking the Town, peaceful except for the barking dog that is below my window, since that’s required feature of my cycling life. I asked the guy to be sure to put me in the room nearest the barking dog, since that’s what I’m accustomed to…

This town was one of the centers of the revolution against the Turks in the 1800s, Bulgaria has been invaded repeatedly over the centuries by different people’s, the Ottoman Turks especially brutal. We toured some of the historic houses many of which have been restored and contain artifacts of interest. Interesting…

After touring the houses, and the villages well which is old cobblestone streets, we stop for a beer out on the main plaza. Beer here for the large bottles, half liter, is equivalent of about $1.20 US.

Tonight the owners of the hotel will cook us dinner and their downstairs restaurant, not sure what is on the menu but I’m sure it will be good. I’ve especially enjoyed eating food that I normally never prepare myself, that is cucumbers and tomatoes and cheese. It is very tasty salad, and a little oil and vinegar and pepper and it’s fantastic! I guess the reason I would never prepare something like this in Alaska is because tomatoes are pretty much impossible to find in any state of acceptable ripeness.

Dinner was good, rice and meat wrapped in cabbage leaves, the cucumber tomato green pepper onion salad of course, giant sausage, and bread with cheese. Very good!

The two guides are the business owners. Herb the wealthy businessman is constantly giving them advice on how to do it better. Come to think of it, Herb is often giving advice on how to do just about everything better!! Anyway, the guides are Orlin and Pano. Pano turned 25 today and Orlin arranged a cake which we all chipped in on. Was nice…

PS: Photos not in order of occurrence…

ss