Day 39

Out of steam boat heading to Lynx Pass, around 8500′. The hills were more gradual than I expected, still absolutely incredibly bright vibrant yellow’s in all of the aspens, spectacular fall color beauty all day!

I arrived at the “book” day’s end the designated campground about 230PM, and weather was perfectly warm and clear! Talked briefly to an elk hunter there, he offered me water, but I was still good! Nice guy, a bow hunter, but I’m pretty sure he didn’t have a full left arm, so not sure how that works…

Decided to continue and will admit to taking the highway alternate, saved me a few miles, but still went over the 9500′ Gore Pass. I missed seeing the Colorado River, but will see it tomorrow…

Ended up in Kremmling at the historic Hotel Eastin. What an interesting room, I can imagine Cowboys being in here in the 1900s. The place was built in 1906, and it feels like it. The floors creak with every step, but happy to be here, the owners are very nice older folks. 

Heading to dinner at the Rocky Mountain Bar and Grill on the recommendation of the hotel owners. Had a tasty jalapeño burger, baked potato, large basic salad, and a couple fat tires. Perfect!!

Back at the hotel, earlier while I was showering I noticed two guys backing in a trailer with a bunch of logs on it. I can hear them now, they are manually splitting every single log, about every 10 or 11 seconds, another pound of the splitting mall against a log. Part of me wants to think gee, couldn’t these guys be doing something else this late? But then I realize, as one of the many things that I’ve seen along this trip so far is just all different ways people live, how different people sustain themselves. These guys, like others I have seen a long trip cutting wood, use extremely hard manual labor to produce dollars for themselves. Cutting trees, cutting them to length, loading them up on the truck or trailer, hauling them to another destination, splitting, selling, producing cash… Some people work much harder than others for their basic needs. 

Elizabeth Warren reminds us that since 1980, the dawn of the evil Reagan era, 100% of all wealth gains have gone to the top 10%. These guys splitting wood outside my window at 10pm are working hard to stay in the 90%… 

Day 40

A warm sunny morning in Kremmling, on the bike about 9 AM. About a third of the day is flat, quite a bit of climbing up Ute pass 9600 feet elevation, but it was reasonably gradual, didn’t have to push at all. Coming down Ute pass, had spectacular views of the valley below and was a total blast riding downhill for about 5 miles, perhaps one of the funnest down hills of the trip so far!

The route moved onto relatively busy highway nine but that was a good shoulder all the way into Silverthorne.

On arrival immediately went to Murphy’s pub and had a cold beer, had been texting with Jackie as they were coming over from Boulder, they came and shared a beer with me at Murphy’s before I checked in at the motel, got cleaned up, then we went up to Frisco to a really nice place called Silverheels for dinner. It was so fantastic that they adjusted their schedule to come visit me, very nice to meet Wayne, and after dinner they took off to do night camping somewhere!

Earlier in the day I had run across a Canadian family heading up Ute pass, parents in their late-30s I would guess, and two 12-year-old daughters cycling along. I saw them again after I showered at the hotel as I was walking over to meet Jackie and Wayne. They sure were nice folks moving pretty slow but the kids seemed happy to be doing the bike trip!

Also texted with Chris and Dave, they’re doing well and I think they planned to overnight in Steamboat Springs. 

Overall a really gorgeous day of cycling, and a real treat to have someone visit me along the trail!

Day 41

Woke early in Silverthorne at my cozy motel, up to get some free breakfast and then get on the bike. Today I will climb the second highest point of the entire trip, Boreas Pass at 11,482 feet. Elevation gain today almost 3000 feet from Silverthorne, most of that climb is over 17 miles. This will also be my 16th crossing of the continental divide. But who’s counting…

(PS: as of today I move onto map number four of six of the paper maps. Having completed about 1700 miles so far, something like 1050 to go…)

Leaving Silverthorne, the bike trails are great! In fact there is a dedicated trail all the way from Silverthorne, along beautiful Dillon Reservoir, to Frisco, and into Breckenridge. Really good condition, excellent signage, really first class!

So once into Breckenridge, the climb up Boreas Ridge starts. After the first few miles it turns to a 1.5 lane dirt road. Well, seems the entire state of Colorado decided to take a Saturday drive up here! Literally the occasional traffic jam, and ENDLESS dust! I’m sure I inhaled a pound at least! I had no clue Saturday would be so busy…

The road up Boreas Pass, about 11,500 at the top was a railroad a hundred years ago, so despite the daunting elevation, the climb was very reasonable and steady. No pushing!

Once at the top, I talked to a gang of cyclists I had seen earlier, very nice folks. Also some other folks who were curious about my travels. Today at least two guys said something like “oh, I sure wish I could take the time to do something like that.”

Many more miles to go in the day, though; all gravel, VERY dusty as traffic was heavier than usual, and I wanted to get to Hartsel to enable Salida the following day. 

Well, I didn’t know if anything was really in Hartsel, but on arrival, lo and behold there is the very rustic and local Highline Bar and Grill! First thing on arrival is a fat tire!! So yum after a 66 mile dusty day! The two bartenders, youngish guys, were very welcoming! No showers in town, but they said I could set my tent up behind the place! Well, not too private, but sold!! 

After my reward beers, I got my tent set up, put on real clothes, went back in for din. Again, very nice folks! I ordered a Reuben burger that came with truly fresh cut fries, best ever!!!

Ended up in two conversations; with Doug a guy from 20 miles away… Trying to sell his portable toilet business, started with eight; now has over 400. Said it was very difficult to get people to keep working even at $20/hr. Nice guy. 

A more extensive conversation with Marcus who was very curious about my journey, cycling for health, etc. He wanted to see my maps, know about my routes… Just a nice veteran guy that built his own cabin, off the grid, cuts firewood for money, lives on about $16k per year… He was inspired by my trip and looked at my bike, wants to buy himself a bike and get started with short trips. He reviewed my route and said there are still many amazing views ahead. I don’t doubt that!

When it came time to pay my bill, the total was too low. I reminded him about the two beers I had on arrival… They said because of my honesty and how far I’ve cycled, those beers were on the house! How often does that happen???? Too damn cool… The Highline in Hartsel is certainly not the fanciest place I’ve been on this trip, but certainly among the nicest folks I’ve met anywhere. 

I’ll grab breakfast here in the am before I start out…

I can hear coyotes in the distance… So cold after the sun is down…

And note to self: next time somebody says you can set up the tent behind the bar, take the option of setting up across the road in the field some distance away instead. It’ll be much much quieter! Ha ha!

Day 42

Woke to another cold clear day, sun not up enough to warm things yet. Walked into the Highline and ordered coffee and a smothered breakfast burrito. Great fuel for another day of cycling. 

Headed south away from Hartsel and eventually onto yet another gravel road with washboard. Yahoo!! But headed through very dry country enroute to Salida. Somewhat uneventful riding in the clear hot sun. There were two hills on the profile; the first moderate, the second much steeper than I expected! Ended up walking most of an hour through a narrow creek canyon. So thankful for fewer cars today! 

Second hill, I sensed I was close to the top, riding vs pushing at this point, as I pass a very old log cabin. I hear a clearly southern voice calling out to me inviting me for a cold beer before I go over the hill!! Well, hellya! I meet Harold and Dennis, two older guys I later find out are in their late 70’s and have known each other for over 20 years. What a treat and gift it was to have them invite me up onto their shady porch for a cold can of coors. 

I probably hung out with those two good old boys for an hour, enjoying my time hearing the stories about Harold’s life in Mississippi, and Dennis’ life in Colorado Springs. Harold was the most vocal of the two, I think, and of people from Mississippi! They’ve been joining each other at this cabin owned by a friend of theirs for many years. They used come up to elk hunt, now they just go up to spend time together and go out to just see if they can find any elk, neither of them so interested in actually doing the large amount of work it takes to hunt and kill and process one.

They were very funny, and kind of sweet to see two older man who can appreciate their friendship, hanging out under the shade of the old log cabin sipping a beer together.

Made it into Salida by about 4 PM, found a reasonable motel, did full laundry, they graciously give me hose and rag so I could actually wipe off my bike which I haven’t really done this entire trip, then found a nice pizza dinner and tasty salad. 

Salida is a pretty nice town, there’s modest houses and neighborhoods surrounding a very coherent downtown of old brick buildings that have been repurposed to businesses and restaurants. Sure like many towns, it has the touristy look, but this one seems a bit more authentic than some, such as Steamboat Springs.

Walking back from pizza it was fully dark now and I could see the eclipse occurring. It was pretty spectacular and needed to be careful not to walk into a post or wall as I was walking, worse than texting while walking in terms of making sure you don’t bump into or trip over something! As I was walking back to my motel through the downtown, I heard some people across the street standing on the sidewalk saying that the eclipse is up there somewhere. I said well just walk across the street you can see it fine from here! So about five or six people from a bar walked across the street, we all stood there for about 30 minutes watching the earth’s shadow progress over the moon. As it turns out, that bar was actually a gin and scotch distillery, and I ended up having a nice gin and tonic there before I went back to the motel. All very nice folks.

Back at the motel, just across the street from a large unlit field, it was easy to see the rest of the clips as the earth shadow begin to uncover the moon again, and you could see the sliver of white begin from left to right. It really was a spectacular view of it here in Salida, Colorado. 
Day 43

A rest day here in Salida…