Day 44

Left a very comfortable Salida and started the day with a 3800′ climb up Marshall Pass. The weather was decent, the ride up the pass was seemingly endless but after five hours I was at the top!

Had a quick snack and then started the 17 or so miles downhill to the next turn. After about mile seven, I encountered a powerful headwind, this soul deflating, heartbreaking headwind really kicked my ass. It took every possible advantage out of the slight downhill I was riding on, had to pedal hard just to continue through it, and somewhere along the way I decided that it absolutely sucked!

I hoped to get mileage around 60 today, had to call it quits around 3:30 PM as to continue would be going straight into the wind for another 14 miles at least. So I only made 42 miles today, somewhat disappointed with that, disappointed I let the headwind get the best of me, but it most certainly did! Got a $50 dry cabin at an RV park in Sargents, hoping the wind will let up by the morning… Cooking a bag of slop for dinner…

Ultimately, my mind and body said it was quitting time. Asleep very early, and happy about that. 

Day 45

Awoke early to still cloudy, but wind was calm!! Yaaayyy!! Had a cuppa joe and oatmeal and busted outa the cabin and rolling by 9am. Feeling much better psychologically…

About 12 miles on a low traffic two lane highway to start, then onto familiar gravel. Saw very few cars today heading up eventually to Cochetopa Pass, just over 10,000′ for my what, 19th crossing of the divide?? Except for the last couple miles, the climb was moderate. 

I reached the suggested stop at Luders Creek Campground about 3pm, but was out of water so had to filter a bunch from the creek. Almost 4pm by then… Thought about going 22m to the next listed campground, but called it a day here. I am the only person here so far, and the camp robber gray jays and noisy squirrels are definitely keeping me company, in their way… Manny would be ecstatic to be here! 

Cooking up a bag of slop, sweet sour pork, adding dehydrated fire roasted veggies. (I will include a photo of the goofy diverse bunch on the cover of each bag I can’t ignore each time I prepare one…) This was actually a pretty good meal combo, for a change!! 

My din almost done, was very surprised by a Kiwi cyclist that walked up and said hello. She and friend are doing the divide, first time I came across them. Though at the top of the pass today, there was a note under a stack of rocks to them from another guy ahead, I wondered when I read the note how long it had been there. I kept seeing tire tracks ahead of me today that looked fresh, apparently an ultra light guy from LA had left the note for the Kiwis he had met earlier. 

Anyway, I gathered some wood for their fire and chatted with them at their campsite for about 30 minutes until their din was ready. They were cooking pasta with sauce, Parmesan, and bacon bits. Great idea!!! I may try that!!

Back to my camp and hearing little critters trying to find food, even had a damn chipmunk or squirrel try to climb up my leg in the dark while sitting at the table!!! 

It is so quiet here… And despite a few raindrops earlier, I can see at least a few stars above me now. 

Quiet, except… You always hear a jet traveling somewhere. We are mostly immune to that sound, we don’t think about how prevalent that sound is in our modern lives, but there have been few places in 45 days thus far despite my remoteness that I haven’t heard at least one during the day or night. 

Early to sleep again, a 60+ day is necessary to Del Norte tomorrow. 

Day 46

A good ride through the mountains after an extremely quiet campground!

The first dozen miles downhill, what a treat! But as soon as you get out of elevation, it’s a lot hotter! Continue through the sagebrush to Delnorte. 

A very nice town with a brewpub called Three Barrels, good beer, fantastic pizza! Give me fuel for tomorrow’s big climb which is the longest and I asked of the entire trip!

So I was sitting at Three Barrels Pizza, the two women I met from New Zealand yesterday walked in and ordered up their dinner, just off their bikes, approximately four hours after I arrived in town.

Staying at the Windsor Hotel, a classic very old hotel that has been refurbished. I heard a little bit about the story, apparently it was rescued from demolition some years ago, like many beautiful structures in the United States, little regard for the classic construction of these places. The new owners put about $3 million into it to get it in good shape, it is really a beautiful place!

Getting to sleep early tonight, tomorrow is a huge day, the longest, highest climb of the entire trip.

Day 47

I woke early with the intention of being on the road much earlier than usual, somehow never seems to work out that way… Enjoyed a couple of the homemade croissant here at the hotel, and some wonderful Huckleberry jam. Very nice place for sure!

Now it’s time to hit the road for the longest highest climb of the entire trip, over Indiana Pass, climbing about 4000′ today to 12,829′.

Headwinds to start, but it looked like the bad weather was leaving. Rolling hills for 8 miles, then climbing in earnest. This hill was a mofo! So long, very few flat spots, too steep to ride for much of it, and the storm intensified as I got higher. 

Incredibly strong winds, had to push the bike at least 50% of climb. About six miles from the top, a very serious wall of clouds appeared, hail started and continued off and on for the rest of the day. Not pleasant at all…

Got to the bitterly cold top of Indiana Pass after 5.5 hours, the strong wind still swirling every which way, and each of the dozen times the hail started, I had to head for the nearest tree. That shit hurts when it hits your face!! 

Much more climbing to go after the main pass, as I dropped maybe 1000′ and then back up over Elwood Pass. The weather got colder and worse as the day progressed, massive thunder and lightning all around me. Heavy rains began on the other side of Elwood Pass. 

I got to suggested campground about 615pm, but was pouring rain. Didn’t see the point of stopping there and setting up in the rain if Platoro has cabins, which was six miles further over a lower pass. Though I admit I was a little worried and desperate at this point. 

Continued up 10,541′ Stunner Pass, about a 1500′ climb over into Platoro. Yes, the third climb of the day… 

So here’s where things got dicey… I definitely miscalculated sunset, was nearly pitch black when I got to the top of the pass, and I had three more miles slowly downhill in the dark to Platoro. 

Didn’t know it then but Platoro was in power outage from the storm, I couldn’t see the listed RV park anywhere. Finally, a car pulled up to a small house nearby and I asked them about the RV park and they pointed me down the dark gravel road. What was especially nice was they offered to help me if I couldn’t get a place at the RV park. 

Totally pitch dark, I knocked on a cabin, wrong people but they kindly walked me to the store. 

At the Platoro Valley Lodge and Cabins finally, pitch dark and raining, Michael the owner said they have the Divide Cabin available!! (A cabin primarily set up for bikers/hikers, no water but some bunk beds.) He saw how cold and wet I was, warmed me up a bowl of homemade vegetable soup, bread, cheese, and I downed two cokes. He fired up the woodstove in the store. What a godsend! I was truly grateful. (Much later, he said he felt the deep chill on me when I shook his hand.)

I got into the cabin, but no heat due to the power outage. I was so thankful to be out of the now intensifying rain and in a dry place. Got my wet clothes off and all my warm dry clothes on and I was happy even without heat! 

It has been thundering and raining heavily since I got here. So thankful, truly grateful to be in a dry cabin. If this trip provides me with nothing else, it will be an appreciation for the kindness of people and the joys the simple things life can bring when you’re desperate tired, cold to the bone, wet, and hungry…

Day 48

The storm yesterday really taxed me on many levels. I slept in til 745am and had brekky at the store cafe. So you don’t get the wrong picture, Platoro is basically a few cabins, and RV park/lodge with a basic store and small cafe. They will be shutting down for the winter in 17 days. 

I decided today would be a rest day here as it was only 38′ and windy at 10am. I spent the morning mapping my departure as the weather continues to look unfavorable for the next week. I’m concerned about hitting really nasty cold weather again with no alternatives or services along the designated very remote route over the next couple days, I may opt off the official route onto a road with more services, and rejoin the main route in either Abiquiu or Cuba. So will see what the weather tomorrow looks like, and after heading over La Manga Pass (10,230) I may head to Chama over Cumbres Pass (10,022) on a paved road vs the very remote official route. Weather will dictate my choice…

But today, relaxing in my cabin, secure from that cold biting wind outside, reading the Best Short Stories of 1968, I selected from the library share in the cafe. Read one actually, then took a very rare two hour nap…

And you may notice I don’t talk a lot about the scenery, I feel like it’s been spectacular, but one can only say so much about the fall colors, vistas, creeks, mountain formations, valleys, passes, and such… And also, essentially no photos from stormy day since my phone spent the day staying dry in a ziplock. 

Ps: I am now at approximately mile 2,010 of 2,750… Cross into New Mexico tomorrow regardless of my route choice…

The thunder and rain rolled in again about 10pm. Hoping that will pass by morning. 

Day 49

Awoke in the dark of dawn to some sort of critter scratching at one of my food bags inside the cabin. 

Got up to look outside and a thin layer of ice is on everything, the sky is a moving grey, bits of sleet are falling, and this is not a positive outlook for the early departure I hoped for… Suddenly regretting my needed rest day as at least yesterday the worst challenge was the cold biting wind…

But got up early and out the door by about 8 AM, pretty chilly and got rained on the first hour coming down the mountain, had my bright orange vinyl work gloves on over my regular gloves and fingers still freezing, but finally hit the pavement to head up the first climb of La Manga pass just over 10,000 feet, about an 1800 foot climb from where I started.

Traffic was very low so it wasn’t that bad, discovered that about 950 revolutions of my pedals in my lowest gear are equal to approximately 1 mile. Who knew!

Made it over the pass and down into the next valley, knowing I had another pass to climb I was hopeful and thankful that I didn’t go too far back down.

Trail note: by choosing to avoid the bad weather in the mountains, going into Chama took me off the official route, so I will lose some portion of bragging rights about completing the great divide route. That’s OK, I’m tired of wet hypothermic cycling! 

While riding over Cumbres Pass, (the second one but not bad) I crossed the narrow gauge tracks of the Cumbre & Toltec Scenic Railroad, a 120-year-old coal fired steam engine narrow gauge railroad that is still running as a tourist train over 64 miles of rail. I saw one small train is a diesel driven old restored engine called the Goose. But the main train is a traditional steam engine and is very cool, very loud, very smoky coal fired. When it takes off, it’s pretty incredible to watch and hear!

I ran into the two Kiwis on arrival in Chama as I saw their bikes parked beside a cafe, se topped to say hi. I was pretty surprised when they told me that they had actually taken someone up on the offer of a truck ride over the passes I just rode over! They are pretty focused on just getting to the end, probably will not be on the official trail any longer than absolutely necessary, and plan to continue south tomorrow regardless of weather. 

I spent the early evening enjoying a couple of beers at a newly opened brewpub, had an interesting chat with two local guys, both contractors for oilfield services nearby. They said the Conoco Phillips, the largest single employer in the area, is going to lay off a bunch of people starting Monday, everybody’s nervous and nobody knows who is going to get laid off. Sounds real sad for families and unfortunate because there is little other work. I think there is a lot of fracking around, and the current price of oil can’t support it. These guys said there is absolutely no development occurring, only maintenance. 

Later on, I had a nice Mexican dinner at Fosters. Got to sleep at a reasonable time, but my sleep pattern on this entire trip is been pretty weird, seems like a never sleep past about 3 AM whether I’m in a tent or motel. I wake up, spend an hour looking at maps, and then fall back asleep. I hope that pattern isn’t my new life sleep pattern after this trip!

Day 50

Looking at the weather forecast last night and first thing this morning, I decided to take another day off. I’m really averse to riding in the rain now, and even though the weather forecast was for 50% rain today, it’s much less tomorrow, and realistically I have the time to relax a day or two before the end. 

So even though I’m off the official Great Divide trail now, arriving in Chama around 3 PM yesterday, I’m happy to be in this interesting little town, the official route would not have allowed me to see the steam engine or hang around all of the railroad buffs that seem to be all over the place here. I’m at a small historical hotel, very cheap but directly across the street from the train station so I can actually sit on the upstairs deck and watch the train come and go twice a day. Maybe it’s a guy thing, but trains are cool! Sure wish I still had that awesome Lionel train set that I had as a little kid…

Cycling from here, the only logical choice is to go directly to Cuba, thus I will, with a somewhat guilty conscience, bypass the official route by a couple of days, but I’m OK with that considering the unreliable weather pattern. 

And with that thought, looking closer at the end of the trip, the official route ends in Antelope Wells New Mexico, and there is absolutely nothing there but a border crossing. There is a suggested alternate route on the map, thus still “official” technically, which goes to Columbus, New Mexico. That is an actual town, and from there you can in theory walk across the border to an actual Mexico town directly across the border, have a beer and a burrito in Mexico! Unless my perspective changes, that is exactly what I intend to do!

Raining in Chama now, glad I’m holding here til tomorrow…