THESSALONIKI

Everything is a blur when I’m jet lagged.

After flying from Portland to Denver to Newark to Frankfurt to Thessaloniki, I got to the Orestias Kastorias hotel just fine, a small hotel in the center of the lower city.

Next morning I headed up from sea level on a sweaty hike uphill for a mile or two, then rewarded with a great view of the entire city. And now the first tour bus let out just after I got here. So interesting to hear complainers, “wish it was clearer” and such. Reminds me very quickly that I’m thankful that I’m not limited to traveling in that manner. I’m glad I’m able to hang out with cyclists instead… We are sooooo superior… 😊

A group of whales is called a pod. A group of buzzards is called a wake.
A group of porcupines is called a prickle. A group of ptarmigans is called a covey. Wallaby in a group are called a mob. A group of unicorns is called a blessing. What would you call a group of seniors getting off the tour bus? Hmmm…. Will ponder that one a few days but would also entertain suggestions for a little contest! Best new group name wins a bottle of Ouzo (aka anise flavored lighter fluid) from Greece!

Walked up to the byzantine Acropolis of Thessaloniki, parts dating back to fourth century. Fantastic place, was converted to a prison called Eptapyrgio in the late 1800s and much of the original fortress was severely neglected. The prison was moved in 1989. Thessaloniki had a long fortress wall added in the 12th century which housed most of the city at that time, half of which has been torn down over the years through lack of recognition of its value, about half of it remains visible in various states of disrepair, intermingled with modern construction.

Just below Trogono Tower, I stopped at a cafe overlooking the city for a Greek Coffee, a thick rich full bodied coffee, made unfiltered from ground coffee cooked in a Briki. Kinda like what I would think of as boiled ground coffee served with a healthy layer of sediment in the bottom. Powerful stuff! From here heading to Pasha’s Garden.

Note to self: Tatziki and Soutzouki apparently sound very much the same when my gringo voice says them, but they are certainly not similar! One is a yogurt cucumber sauce, the other is Greek sausage and peppers. Now I know to speak more clearly!

Next to the Rotunda; first built in mid 4th century as a mausoleum for members of an imperial Roman family. Somewhere in the fifth century, it was converted to a Christian church. Somewhere in the 1500s, it’s converted to a mosque. Somewhere before the 1900s, I was converted back to a Christian church. Now a museum.

Yada yada yada…

Back to the hotel, took a nap…

Yada yada yada…

Somewhere in the evening when I was walking around I came across a place with a huge slice of pizza and a cold beer, that was my late dinner. The pizza was spectacularly good, super thin crunchy crust, and the cheese was probably all feta, none of that heavy tasteless mozzarella like in the United States.

Next morning woke up and wasn’t sure what I would do, but on a whim after coffee, decided to find a rental car place. Well I’m sure any of you who have traveled to realize that sometimes the places the Google says are there, actually aren’t. So after walking a couple of miles, finally came across a Hertz rental place. But no cars available until noon, so more walking, went to the white tower, you can look it up, got a great view of the port and water area. Also a great view of where I hiked yesterday, quite the elevation from sea level!

After a great early lunch gyro, I got my car and headed to Vergina, a UN world heritage site. This was the discovery in 1973 of the tomb of King Philip, much of it was unearthed but now covered by a large mound and museum, was actually pretty amazing to see the condition of the tombs, dating from the mid 4th century. Glad I came out here. No photos allowed, so maybe I’ll steal one from the web. The internet has everything!

The 60k drive out was peaceful, Google routing me on some very quiet narrow old farm roads versus the larger roads, through beautiful farmlands and hills and such, dominated by fig trees, olive trees, and a smattering of corn and sunflowers.

But how noisy the city is, you don’t notice until you get out in the peaceful quiet. Very nice peaceful small town out here surrounding the site.

After visiting the tombs, and before I head back, I stopped here in Vergina for a refreshing Greek salad, a fantastic mix of onions and yellow peppers and tomatoes and feta cheese and what I think is oregano. Just very very simple and tasty!

Returning to town, big city rather, I needed to fill up with gas before I returned the car. What an ordeal that turned out to be, I must say that my years of driving have paid off well in terms of the ability to navigate these narrow streets and social driving rules versus actual rules…. Finally found a gas station, it was literately a single pump on the side of the road, not actually station to drive into, you just pull up to the street curb and the guy pumps gas. Crazy. But I got my gas!

Then I am now on the pirate boat for the 630 departure, leaving from right next to the white tower. The ride is free, you just have to buy drinks. Five euro for a pint of beer, not so bad really… not very many people on the boat, definitely is not the main part of tourist season. They do a 30 minute ride out in the harbor, least I’ll get some pictures of the city from out there.

Techno rock and bad beer on the boat. Enough of that nonsense!

Gave me the opportunity to stop at the Hoppy Pub nearby, only four people here but their tap beer selection is good. Having a Brewdog Punk IPA from Scotland, very happy to have a beer that has a bite!

Back to the hotel, did laundry and then went out to the same place as the other night for a slice of tasty feta pizza. Delicious!

Next morning down at hotel coffee, I talked to a couple who look like they might be 90 years old, still traveling. Didn’t sound like they were originally married to each other, sounded more like each of their spouses are no longer around, they connect and travel together periodically. They spent some time in Paris before Greece, then she will be going back and he will going be going to the male only monastery at Mount Athos. It is built on top of the rock and the photos I have seen are spectacular. I’m not sure but we may see or get near it on our cycling trip. Anyway, he is converted Russian orthodox now. Dave and Emily were real nice folks, Emily terminated the conversation when Dave started talking about his sciatica. Apparently they must’ve agreed that anytime he starts talking about body pain or organ dysfunction, they needed to move on and go do something else. Very funny…

Paul and Rebecca and Swati and Sheri will arrive today, later this afternoon.

All is well…